In 2016, our descent to the Colorado River occurred before a
snowstorm and subsequent cold front. We had no difficulty descending the South
Kaibab Trail, its first mile covered by a few inches of hard pack snow and ice.
The same went for ascending the Bright Angel Trail a few days later, its last
mile covered by less than a foot of fresh powder. Mule service to and from Phantom
Ranch was never interrupted.
This year was drastically different. Our descent was
scheduled after three heavy snowstorms. Several feet of snow blanketed the
first three miles from the rim. Park Service closed the South Kaibab Trail and
suspended mule service. Idle mule drivers and wranglers weren’t making money,
so they helped the cause by shoveling out “The Chimney,” the first half-mile
and steepest section of the South Kaibab Trail.
A day before our descent,one of our guides checked conditions
of The Chimney and a mile further to Cedar Ridge. She rated both sections passable. The weather
forecast called for sunny weather, so we got the green light for our Friday
morning descent.
At first light, we started our descent, equipped with poles,
crampons and boot gators. Though dug out, the trail was still covered with hard
pack and ice.We took twice as long as last year, fighting the chunky unstable conditions.
The descent got even tougher below Cedar Ridge (barely two
miles down),which hadn’t been shoveled at all. Only a narrow strip of surface was
packed (probably by a few day hikers and our tour guide). Deviating from this
strip meant a sudden dropping to two to three feet of snow—very unnerving! It felt
like walking on dinosaur eggs!
The area between Cedar Ridge and Skeleton
Point was most treacherous. Our lead guide, a thirty-year veteran of this trail
slowed our pace because she couldn’t see the trail’s edge. One wrong step and we
could have plunged through the snowdrift and down a few thousand feet! I
wondered why we weren’t fastened to safety lines. It didn’t help when an
ascending group of hikers approached us. We had to lean against the cliff wall
to let them pass.
Somehow we survived the trek to Skeleton Point, where the
snow ended and only a few ice patches remained. We kept our crampons on until
reaching “The Tip Off,” approximately five miles down.My stress level decreased,
but muscle burn had already set in. We made more stops to rehydrate and snack than
we did last year—odd for a descent. I ran out of gas the last mile and trudged
the flat river trail to Phantom Ranch. The descent took seven hours.Upon
arriving at our cabin,I stretched for an hour, napped for another and lingered
in a warm shower until dinner.
Phantom Ranch was in dire straits because of suspended mule
service. We watched helicopters with fixed lines haul away a week’s worth of
trash (two trips) as well as drop down food and beverage for Phantom Ranch
guests.
Our hike was supposed to be mule-assisted,
so my pack weighed a few extra pounds despite eliminating batteries, rain gear,
and extra change of clothes. I was determined, however, to haul down my first novel,
“The Azurite Encounter,” depositing it on the cantina’s bookshelf. It weighed
less than a pound and was worth leaving behind most of my toiletries in the car.
I have mixed feelings about this year’s trip to Phantom Ranch.
Yes, the canyon views were breathtaking. Yes, I enjoyed meeting other hikers at
the Phantom Ranch. But I didn’t enjoy the mental and physical stress of the
descent. The only saving grace was my
group.They kept a positive attitude the entire time, which helped me. We spent
much of our “recupe” playing the card game, “Uno.” I mentioned to my group how
the characters in my novel also passed the time playing Uno on their Grand
Canyon trip. My group requested I do a reading over dinner. How flattering!Other
dinner attendees heard my reading, and after dinner, one hiker took my book off
the shelf to read!
Our ascent to the rim did not seem as
grueling. My spirits were lifted by the
humor of my lady compadres. Like young spring deer they passed me, yelling
something about rainbow colored Skittles. I was at least a half hour behind
them but could still hear their encouraging words bellowing down to me.
Don’t think I’ll ever do a winter hike to Phantom Ranch
again, but I have enough memories and photos to enjoy and share. My advice to
anyone considering this trip: Know your limits, check the weather, and make
sure the tour has a refundable cancellation policy. There’s no shame in
“chickening out” in the name of safety. It’s less stressful to postpone your trip
than trying to “tough it out” and risk sudden death.
Jane Frances Ruby
Award-Winning Author
The Azurite Encounter
www.TheAzuriteEncounter.com
